![]() Civita di Bagnoregio, Panorama |
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Civita
Bagnoregio (Viterbo)
"La città che muore"
located in a vast canyon atop a
pinnacle ruled by wind and erosion, is 70 miles north of
Rome and has a permanent population of 15 people who proudly
talk about their village and its Etruscan and Roman roots.
Civita is connected to the town of Bagnoregio by a narrow
pedestrian bridge. The original bridge that connected these
two villages eroded away over the centuries and was bombed
out during WWII. In 1965 a new bridge was built for local
foot traffic-
si
va a piedi.
The walk is long
but the view is spectacular! You enter the town through an
archway cut in the rock made by Etruscans 2,500 years ago.
As you pass under the 12th-century Romanesque arch, the
Santa Maria gate, you feel a great sense of tranquility
and you will be embraced by ancient history as you walk in
the smooth cobblestones. This was once the main
Etruscan road leading to the Tiber Valley and Rome.
It's difficult to imagine such a charming
site with no cars, no pollution, no lodging, a few
shops, and only one small restaurant.
Soon you will find yourself
in
Piazza San Donato
or Piazza del
Duomo.
Nearby the church,
the Chiesa San Donato (8th
century- the only church in town, built upon a pagan temple)
there is a Romanesque bell tower,
campanile (8th
century) and the Palazzo Alemanno now a government
building. Near the church there is a wine cellar and an
olive press that dates back to Etruscan times. Civita is a
poet's dream, an artist's masterpiece, a visitor's fantasy.
Each
footpath holds a surprise. You can walk the streets and
alleys, admire the architecture, the balconies, the stone,
the flowers.
The warm stone walls glow, and each
stairway, window, archway is a sketch pad, the focus of your camera. Today, Civita has three components: the
aging, full-time residents, who welcome visitors with their
big heart; rich, big-city Italians who are
buying pieces of this unique treasure for their country escape; and visitors,
like ourselves, enjoying
"un cammino verso civiltà del
passato." |